The Background
One day in Manila, I saw a wall with pictures of famous Filipinos at a beer bar called Tap Station Makati Riverside Craft Beer Hipster in Manilla, Philippines. I recognized Manny Pacquiao out of the group and no one else. There was one older lady pictured that caught my attention. I asked the bartender who it was and she said it was a famous tattoo artist name Whang Od Apo. I immediately googled her to find out more information and found out she’s a certified living legend. Whang Od was 102 years old at the time. After reading about her, I was convinced I wanted to get a tattoo from her and that getting a tattoo from Whang Od was a time sensitive bucket list item that I had to prioritize.
The Plan
I did some more research over the next few months on how to get to Whang Od from Bangkok, Thailand. Every way to Whang Od in Buscalan was explored. I considered flying from Bangkok (BKK) to Tuguegarao (TUG) and get to the village from there. Renting a car didn’t look promising as it’s a 12-hour drive. I considered flying into Clark (CRK) in Angeles City to cut out some of the car time. None of these options looked viable when you consider price, schedule, and hassle. The obvious and smart choice was the original option of going with a local tour from Manila and making the best of it.
Tour Guide or Self Guide?
Sometimes local tour operators are amazing and provide a service and convenience that justifies the fees while other times you get no value and actually know you would’ve had a better trip without a tour guide shortly after the trip starts. Manila has potential to be the second option because everyone speaks English and there’s tons of western food options and hotels if things go south. In this case, the smart money was on the tour guide for a better trip to see Whang Od than self-guided because of potential language barriers outside of Manila and serious time constraints due to an outbound flight.
I talked with three different tour operators and found one trip to Whang Od’s village in Buscalan, Philippines that fit my schedule departing Manila, Philippines on 31 October 2019 and returning to Manila on 2 November 2019.
Visa Requirements
Per the US State Department, the following Visa requirements apply for US Passport holders going to the Philippines:
Per the US State Department, the following Visa requirements apply for US Passport holders:
PASSPORT VALIDITY: Must be valid at time of entry.
BLANK PASSPORT PAGES: Sufficient space for an entry visa stamp.
TOURIST VISA REQUIRED: Required. Must be obtained prior to departure from the U.S.
VACCINATIONS: Required for travelers from countries with yellow fever.
CURRENCY RESTRICTIONS FOR ENTRY: 50,000 pesos/$10,000.
CURRENCY RESTRICTIONS FOR EXIT: 50,000 pesos/$10,000.
Itinerary
Day 00
08:00PM Meet up McDonald’s Greenfield District near Shaw Blvd
09:00AM ETD Buscalan, Kalinga – Whang Od Village
Day 01
06:00AM ETA Banaue Welcome Arch, PhotoOps, Breakfast
07:00AM Banaue Rice Terraces Viewdeck
08:00AM ETA Bontoc, Mountain Province. Buy Supplies
09:00AM ETA Tinglayan jump off point
10:30AM ETA Buscalan village/Register
11:00AM Homestay Rest
11:30AM Lunch (Hosted)
12:30PM Tattoo session Part 1
07:00PM Dinner (Hosted)
08:00PM Socials
09:00PM Lights Off
Day 02
05:00AM Wakeup call/Bfast
06:00AM Continuation of Tattoo session
10:00AM Pack up
12:00NN Lunch Along the way (own acct)
03:00PM Halsema Highway
04:00PM stop over Pasalubong center
06:00PM Dinner (own acct)
11:00PM ETA Manila
Tour includes: van transfer, driver fees, tolls, parking, overnight stay accommodation, guide fees, entrance and environmental fees
Tour excludes: meals, tattoos fees, any personal expenses, gratuities, pictures of Whang Od,
What actually happened
Day 00
The Whang Od tour group met at McDonald’s Greenfield District Near Shaw Blvd in Edsa, Philippines around 8pm. I struggled a little to find the van because the directions weren’t clear. I was texting someone from the home office through WhatsApp that wasn’t very helpful. When they said meet at McDonalds, they actually meant a parking lot at the opposite end of the mall. I was a little anxious because I knew I was running late and I didn’t know what direction I was supposed to be going. Finally, I was connected to the tour guide and he dialed me in. I was actually really close. In all honesty though, there were more than one van full of people in the parking lot so it wasn’t obvious which unmarked van was for the Whang Od tour.
There were people already in the van and the rest of us joined them. We piled in and it was cramped. The van was packed. It seemed like everything would be okay until we made two more stops along the way and picked up three more people. Now it was crazy packed and no room for comfort. There were 12 tourists plus the driver and the tour guide and all of the tourists had overnight bags and then some.
And The Journey Begins
Meeting at the McDonald’s was a good move because I was able to eat a few double cheeseburgers and get a few for the road trip. I didn’t anticipate there being a lot of food options in Whang Od’s village. If you’re a regular reader of my blog, then you know how I feel about food and travel.
Everybody in the van was excited and chatting when the van started the drive off but then started fading out slowly one right after the other. Sleeping was the best option to pass the time since the driver was driving like he was running away from his demons. He drove crazy over the wonderful Manila potholes and bumps. Last thing I remember was traffic outside of Manila came to a dead stop. I put on my Bose Noise Cancelling headphones and fell asleep shortly after that hoping to wake up at Whang Od’s Village.
Day 01
Banaue Welcome Arch
At 0615, looking at the timestamp on my pictures, we arrived at the Banaue Welcome Arch. This was a cool little rest stop to stretch your legs and take some pictures. It’s 5 pesos to use the bathroom and 5 pesos for coffee which is roughly $0.10. There are several souvenir shops and a military checkpoint. We had no hassles with the checkpoint. It’s a tourist destination.
Banaue Rice Terraces
At 0714, looking at the timestamp on my pictures, we arrived at the Banaue Rice Terraces view deck. This was pretty cool. The rice terraces were like rice terraces in Bali or Vietnam. It’s a nice view. There is a waterfall off in the distance. The air was fresh. A young girl had a wood scooter with no engine that she was letting people sit on and take a picture for 10 pesos. A few people actually did it which was surprising. The ground was very wet and a little muddy. There weren’t a lot of services at this stop but it’s a nice view.
Bontoc, Philippines
At 0811, according to the timestamp on my pictures, we arrived in Bontoc, Philippines. The view from here was amazing. The green backdrop surrounding the area was socked in with fog and was very picture worthy. I was happy to get this picture of the Virgin Mary standing on a snake in the forefront. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get the shot without the antennae. There was a very dirty public bathroom that reminded me how fortunate I am to be a male. It smelled like urine and there were flies everywhere. I imagine this was a fine facility when it was brand new but it hasn’t been maintained. There was another military checkpoint.
Happy With Decision To Use A Tour Guide
In hindsight, it turned out to be a great decision to go with the tour guide. I was considering to plan and do the trip all myself but that would’ve been a nightmare. After all, The Philippines is a relatively (keyword) easy country to tour because many people speak English and there’s several western food options if the going gets too tough. However, once outside of Manila, encountering challenges with the locals is more likely. This including language barriers and police/military checkpoints. You might be okay if you have a Filipino with you but you will still have problems.
At the checkpoints, the driver and the tour guide are probably recognized by the sentries and just get us waived through. We’re a diverse van full of tourists, heading to see Whang Od Apo and the police understand that. I think if I was alone in a private car, the police would run the dogs through my vehicles and question what I was doing out there alone. They would overly scrutinize my credentials. It may result in getting turned away to keep me from danger because a dead western tourist is bad for any country. Also, there could be a shakedown to get through that may require a bribe or two.
Long and Winding Bumpy and Bouncy Roads
The van kept driving and driving and driving down winding bumpy roads. Then the asphalt turned to broken asphalt which turned into rock then dirt then muddy dirt. The final stretch was narrow bouncy roads on a cliff alongside a river. It seemed like the driver never slowed down. Whang Od’s village is definitely in rural Philippines.
We arrived at the parking area for Whang Od’s village at noon. My back hurt from bouncing around in the van but the driver got us to our destination within an hour. That’s amazingly close to keeping the schedule for the Philippines.
Arriving in Buscalan, Philippines
The value of the tour guide was reinforced upon arrival at the destination. We were received well and we were expected. I can just imagine the drama wanderlust travel bloggers encounter showing up for an adventure with no plans. While those are exciting times and make for good stories, I have to question how many disappointments are never shared. The village could’ve easily been at capacity or maybe they don’t pass the attitude test or something else. It’s a big crapshoot to take an adventure like this and show up unexpected to a remote place like Buscalan, Philippines.
We had to fill out a form and pay a small head charge at the welcome center. There is a sign for guide fees but that didn’t impact us because that included in our tour. The Tour Guide from the village was a young lady waiting at the welcome center that led us to Whang Od’s village.
First The Drive, Then The Hike
The hike from the welcome center to the village was brutal. The pictures don’t do it justice. The path was moist so the dirt was mud, the rocks were slimy, and the concrete was slick. It was narrow and wet. There are tons of trip hazards. The path is almost straight down and then straight up with a little flat part in the middle where the bridge is. This characterization is not to discourage anyone or portray the village in a bad light. I have to point out the obvious so anyone considering the journey is not surprised. A path like this could be a deal breaker for someone with a health or mobility issue.
I was in the middle of the pack but quickly passed everyone including the tour guide. The destination was up the hill and I wanted to step it out so I could maximize my stride and get there quicker.
I arrived at the top of the other side very winded. My body was sweaty, smelly and questioning why this is a good idea. The view of the welcome center from the other side brings it into perspective. Everything looks so small but it’s actually not that far away. The hike started at 1232pm and ended at 1258pm. Doesn’t seem long but it was!
First Of The Group To The Village
The first thing I saw at the village welcome center was two guys playing cards, a display of wood needles that you needed for your tattoo, and some pictures of Whang Od. Everyone had to buy a wood needle. You didn’t have to get it from this place but you would need one before getting a tattoo. This was the easiest place to buy one and they probably weren’t that much cheaper further into the village. The Buscalan traditional tattoo designs were on display as well.
The local tour guide arrived behind me with the other people from the group. She walked us to the home stay where we would be sleeping after everyone was accounted for. The village was developing. There was running water. Pigs and chickens were everywhere. There were people working in their yards. Kids were playing basketball. We were just guests in their special sanctuary.
The Homestay
The home stay wasn’t that far from the entrance. It was a house where they put all 12 of us kind of just like bodies everywhere. We didn’t get a lot of privacy. It was a room with mats on the floor. Everybody was stepping over each other. It’s a remote village in the Philippines not a Hilton in Beverly Hills. There was no cell signal. The green countryside view was amazing.
Getting The Tribal Tattoos
Everyone settled in and got relaxed. Some people took naps while others socialized. It was a pretty good group of people. Everyone was happy and excited to be getting tattoos. Around 3pm, a group of young ladies showed up to give us tattoos. I thought that was weird. I thought Whang Od was doing the tattoos which is actually pretty funny in hindsight.
No Whang Od? WTF?
It turns out Whang Od only does her signature which is three dots which is done special in the morning. That makes sense. She’s an older lady at 103 and probably not putting in 14-hour days. The young group of girls were the tattoo artists that do the Whang Od Buscalan tribal designs. It was said they were her grandchildren or great grandchildren. One looked exactly like Whang Od.
Whang Od Changed The Tattoo Game For Women
It was apparent the men in the village do not do the tattooing. Wikipedia says it was traditionally a man’s job but Whang Od broke that mold because of her father’s influence. Then Whang Od only trained women how to do tattooing and the village respected her decision. I’m sure there are men who do tattoos on the other men/villagers but all the tourists are there to see Whang Od.
How Do You Choose A Bucket List Tattoo?
There are only about 30 tattoo patterns by Whang Od to choose from depending on which chart you see. All of the tattoos have different meanings. I got the Sun and Moon pattern on my left shoulder and the Traveler on my right shoulder. The tattoos were between 400 and 1000 pesos which is $8-$20 plus any gratuity. I paid 500 pesos for each of mine plus gratuity. The tattoo artist was cool and I was happy with her.
How The Tattoos Are Done
The way they apply the tattoo pattern is pretty interesting. For my Sun & Moon design, the lady used a large orange plastic cap to put a perfect circle on my arm. Then she tapped it in with my wood needle and her little tapping hammer. Then she used a piece of grass dipped in black ink to lay out the rest. The piece of grass is used repeatedly to ensure the same size throughout the pattern. It’s actually pretty genius.
Then they go over the pattern tapping it in with the wood needle to drive the pattern into your flesh. At the end, they wipe it all off and do some spot checking and touch up. After that, you are done. Each one of my tattoos are typical size and took about 45-60 minutes each to complete.
No Whang Od…Super Disappointing
I was disappointed that Whang Od didn’t do the tattoos herself. I guess my expectations weren’t really that good if I thought a 102-year-old woman was going to do several tattoos for vans full of tourists. The marketing for the tour says meet Whang Od and get a tattoo so that’s misleading even though it’s accurate because you do get a tattoo and you could possibly meet Whang Od although it’s not guaranteed and you don’t meet Whang Od and she gives you a tattoo. I probably should’ve asked but even then, I probably would’ve still come to the village. I pursued the bucket list item without reservation and that’s what’s important.
Tattoos For Everyone
Everybody got their tattoos and we socialized. For some people this was their first tattoo which I thought was kind of cool. Better than getting your first tattoo at some joint in a sailor port from some weirdo. I did get a laugh from some of the people that went first complaining about the pain. I have a full back tattoo that was done with bamboo in Pattaya, Thailand so I wasn’t worried. Everyone around me was shocked when they saw it.
Mission Accomplished, Now It’s Time For Bed
After tattoos there was a local meal of traditional Filipino food that I didn’t really find appealing. I ate a little bit of and then crashed. It wasn’t horrible but it wasn’t macaroni and cheese. The water used was boiled but I was still concerned about local bacteria so I was reserved. Since I’m an experienced traveler and know that eating like a local will get you shitting like a tourist, I had some beef jerky and other snack foods to help tide me over.
Day 02
The Day Begins With Rain
It started raining after I went to bed. It rained all night. I woke up at 0547 to a very steady flow of big rain drops. Around 0730 the rain let up and we were told we would be leaving soon so we needed to pack up our belongings. It was looking like we we’re going have a pretty horrible walk back to the car.
An Unexpected Plot Twist
The group was a little demoralized and kind of spread out from each other on the walk back to the van. In the rear, where I was, a couple of people started complaining to the local guide that we came to see Whang Od and it wasn’t cool that we didn’t get to see her. I think a tip was thrown the local guides way or something but all of the sudden, she led the back half of the group to Whang Od.
I learned a long time ago when I travel, that language barriers are a blessing and a curse. Sometimes you get screwed and other times you get a license to take unauthorized pictures because you didn’t see or can’t read the no photos sign. This was somewhere in between that, where I don’t know what happened because of the language barrier, but I benefited when I followed the group.
The Living Legend In The Flesh
We went to Whang Od’s house and she was out front. There’s was a line of people waiting to take pictures with her. Everyone that took pictures with her was giving her candy and gifts as well as tips for the pictures. Whang Od probably pulled in 30,000 pesos or $600 US maybe even more, in that short time that I saw. I was able to take several pictures of Whang Od and a few with her. Then Whang Od started doing some tattoos. I waited in line with my group and we all got the three dots on our tattoos. It was pretty cool.
It All Worked Out And I Was Happy
Whang Od seemed like an old sweet lady who looks very fragile. She didn’t speak English and she wasn’t big on Tagalog. This was obvious when the Filipino tourists needed a local tour guide to communicate with her. After our visit with Whang Od, we made our way to the van. The hike back to the van started at 1037 and ended at 1112. It was a little better walking back to the van because the uphill side is less steep than the village side of the path, but it still took some effort. The other half of the group wasn’t very happy when we told them we saw Whang Od and got her signature on our tattoos.
Crazy Bathroom Before The Road Trip Back To Manila
Prior to leaving, there was a little bathroom that was essentially four walls and a roof with a hole at the bottom of the wall for us to pee through if we had to go. After that, everyone piled into the van and we headed back toward Manila. It was another 13-hour trip in the van with 13 other people.
I slept through the drive a little bit. Thank god for Bose Noise Canceling Headphones. They helped me get through. The driver just kind of threw people out of the van along way back. That is to say, he was supposed to go to some specific drop points but he didn’t want to do u-turns and all this other stuff. He was tired and started being kind of shitty.
Conclusion
Being in a small van with 13 other people is a small price to pay and was definitely worth it. I conquered a bucket list item and got a tattoo from Whang Od, the living legend. Also, the scenery along the way was also very memorable which I didn’t anticipate. It was nice to see rural parts of the Philippines. I have no regrets and recommend this trip to anyone.
Resources
- Google Maps – Tap Station Makati Riverside Craft Beer Hipster
- Wikipedia – Whang Od Apo
- US State Department – Philippine Visa Requirements
- Aleteia.org – Mary Standing On A Snake
